Varanasi is not something you take in at once. It unfolds around you, layer by layer.

The city is built along the Ganga, with over 80 ghats forming its edge. The Kashi Vishwanath Temple, one of the twelve Jyotirlingas, remains central to the yatra. Around it, life continues in its full range. Early morning boat rides, evening Ganga Aarti at Dashashwamedh Ghat, and the constant movement through the narrow lanes of the old city all form part of the experience.